Mastering Whites in a Sea of Red Wines: The Story of Domaine Bernard Gripa
Domaine Bernard Gripa, located in the village of Mauves, is a family-run winery with a rich history in viticulture dating back to the 17th century, although domaine bottling only began in 1974. Owned by Fabrice Gripa, with his father Bernard, in his 70s, still actively involved, the Domaine is a testament to their dedication to sustainable viticulture.
Generations of Expertise and Organic Practices
The Gripas meticulously care for their 17.6 hectares of vineyards. The steep slopes and commitment to organic practices necessitate working the land entirely by hand. No herbicides or insecticides disrupt the natural balance, and plowing is the preferred method for maintaining healthy soil.
Viticulture
Domaine Bernard Gripa stands out in the Northern Rhône for its significant portion of white grapes (over 50%). They cultivate Marsanne and Roussanne for their Saint-Péray and Saint-Joseph appellations, alongside Syrah for the red Saint-Joseph wines.
The Domaine produces two cuvées for each appellation: a classic blend and a selection from the finest plots. The "Le Berceau" cuvées, for both red and white Saint-Joseph, and "Les Figuiers" for Saint-Péray, showcase the unique characteristics of each terroir.
Mastering the Art of White Wines
Domaine Bernard Gripa has earned a reputation for its exceptional white wines. One reason is Fabrice's experience working for renowned wine estates worldwide, including the celebrated Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River, Australia. Fabrice Gripa emphasizes balance and freshness, utilizing minimal sulfur and oak aging in demi-muids. This approach results in distinctive wines that age gracefully. The Saint-Péray whites, with their limestone soils, offer a touch more acidity compared to the Saint-Joseph whites grown on granite.
A Light Approach to Red Wines
The reds are grown on the terraced hillsides of Mauves and Tournon on complex primary soils of granite and gneiss. Fabrice and Bernard foot-tread the grapes (retaining around 20% whole bunches) in open wooden vats. After a gentle fermentation, with much less pigeage than in the past, the wine is aged in demi-muids. Like the whites, Fabrice prefers the reds younger, at around five years old, and comments that he finds Syrah less interesting after ten years. The Saint-Joseph red can initially be a little tight on release, but after 3-4 years, it becomes fragrant, mineral, and precise.
A Must-Try
Domaine Bernard Gripa's commitment to organic viticulture, meticulous attention to detail, and focus on balance make their wines a true representation of the Northern Rhône terroir. Whether you prefer elegant white wines or expressive reds, you'll find a reflection of the region's unique characteristics in each bottle.